The first of anything truly innovative tends to stand apart, and that’s certainly the case with this early Polerouter Microtor. The reference 20357-1, introduced in 1955, marks the debut of Universal Genève’s Caliber 215: the brand’s first micro-rotor movement. Patent pending at the time and officially registered in 1958, it was a bold step forward in movement design.
Some of these early examples, like this one, even feature the coveted “Patented Rights Pending” engraving beneath the rotor, a small but significant detail collectors chase today. The Caliber 215 wasn’t just a technical curiosity; it represented a genuine leap in watchmaking. By integrating a smaller, inset oscillating mass, Universal Genève created movements that were both slimmer and more refined, the kind of innovation that helped define mid-century horological design.
A true icon, the Universal Genève Polerouter was masterfully designed by none other than Gérald Genta, the genius behind legends like the Royal Oak and Patek Nautilus.
Flip the watch over and inside the caseback sits the hallmark HF, denoting Huguenin Frères, the storied Le Locle casemaker founded in 1868 and long associated with some of the finest Swiss cases of the era.