NOS* 1960s Zenith Chronograph | 18K Rose Gold | Ref. G171 Cal. 146D | 35mm Sunray Silver Dial

 

Long before the El Primero came to define Zenith chronographs, the manufacture was already making some seriously good manually wound examples. This late-1960s piece, housed in a warm 18k rose gold case, is a particularly handsome reminder of that period.

Inside is the caliber 146D, a column-wheel chronograph with roots in Martel Watch Co., the specialist maker whose history is closely tied to Universal Genève. Its architecture can be traced back to the Universal Genève caliber 285 family, making it all the more interesting to the vintage chronograph collector.

The silver sunburst dial is wonderfully restrained, with twin registers and a beautifully proportioned 18K rose gold case. What really sets this particular example apart, though, is its state of preservation. The case remains remarkably crisp, while the dial is clean and bright, retaining the freshness these watches so often lose with time. It’s about as close as one can hope to get to experiencing how one of these might have looked in a dealer’s window in the late 1960s.

Interestingly, around 1969–70, an 18k gold Zenith chronograph like this cost roughly the same as the newly introduced steel El Primero A386. Today the A386 gets most of the attention, but back then, the hierarchy was far less obvious.

That’s part of the charm here: a beautifully preserved Zenith from the moment just before everything changed.


CONDITION

The watch is in exceptional condition, very clean and sharp. The movement is very clean; the dial is flawless and free of scratches and noticeable marks. The minute and hour hands show light aging.

It has been fully serviced and keeps fantastic time.
The amplitude of 278° Rate +2s/d and Beat Error 0.1ms.

THE FINE PRINT

Maker: Zenith
Reference: G171
Material: 18K Rose Gold
Crystal: Plexiglass 
Lume: No
Bracelet/Strap: New Leather strap
Box/Papers: Hausmann & Co warranty certificate with a two-year guarantee.

 

 -This watch was photographed on a 6.9 inch / 175mm wrist.


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