1940s Movado “565” | François Borgel | Ref. 12744 | 35mm Case Cal. 75

The tenth example documented to date. For those who have spent enough time down the vintage Movado rabbit hole, there is one case that has always stood apart, not simply for its rarity, but for its unmistakable connection to one of the great steel watches of the period: the Patek Philippe Ref. 565.

Produced by François Borgel, the waterproof case found on this Movado Ref. 12744 is essentially the same celebrated architecture associated with the 565, made in exceedingly small numbers for Movado. So small, in fact, that only ten examples have been documented to date.

“Fresh to market” is a phrase that gets thrown around rather freely in vintage watches. Here, it actually applies. This example has never appeared publicly before, and in more than two decades of collecting, it is only the second I have had the privilege of handling.

Exactly why so few were made remains one of those wonderful unanswered questions in vintage Movado. One long-standing theory holds that Patek Philippe encouraged Borgel to keep this particular waterproof case largely reserved for its own production, leaving precious few for other manufactures. Fact or collector folklore, we may never know. What we do know is that another one is unlikely to turn up anytime soon.

CONDITION

This timepiece is in near NOS condition, with a case as crisp as when it originally left the store in the 1940s. The dial remains nearly flawless shape with only a very few small spots.

The watch was never serviced since is NOS, but it is in great running shape.

DETAILS

Maker: Movado

Reference: 12744

Year: 1940s

Material: Stainless Steel

Dimensions: 35mm diameter

Crystal: Plexiglass 

Lume: No

Caliber: Cal. 75

Lug width: 18mm 

Bracelet/Strap: New Privare Eyes BOR bracelet

Box/Papers: No